Honda cb350 - Pictures, tips and links

Searchable Parts List

This is still a work in progress:
Searchable cb350 parts list
So far, I have the complete parts list for the K5 (cb350g) through K2. Once finished it will have all 5 models plus the complete CL350 parts list as well.

Easily Test Your Condensers (without expensive equipment) & Searchable Parts List

This step by step guide walks you through how to test your condensers with a battery, a couple resistors (easily found at Radio Shack), a stopwatch and a volt meter.

My Honda cb350 twin

Keeping your Honda cb350 running:

Shop Manual:

This one is a no brainer. I found this cb350 twin shop manual some time ago. Enjoy the freebie.
Note: This shop manual is from 1974 and covers more than just the cb350 line, but also the cl350, sl350, cb250 and cl250 models.

What oil should I use?

First of all do not use motor oil designed for cars. The cb350 twin, as well as most japanese motorcycles, has a "wet clutch" which means the same oil flowing through the engine gets into the clutch plates as well. Modern car oil has additives (some call them friction modifiers) that can make your clutch slip over time and wear out faster. So if the oil says it's ok for wet clutch motocycles engines, you are good to go.

I use 10W40 in the spring and fall and 20W50 in the hot months.

What spark plug should I use?

NGK B8ES / ND: W24ES plugs seem to be the concensus in shop manuals, online and by mechanics.

Cam Chain Tensioner Adjustment

It turns out that both the Clymer and Hanyes manuals are dead wrong about the cam chain tension adjustment proceedure, that it to say that one crucial step is very very wrong. Only the Honda shop manual has it right. I figured this out after a recent adjustment to the tensioner that resulted in louder than normal cam chain noise. I then compared the 3 manuals to see what in the world I had done wrong. Getting down to business: make the tensioner adjustment 90° A.T.D.C (after top dead center) not *at* top dead center. In other words while rotating the rotor counterclowise and watching the left valves, you hit top dead center (T.D.C.) and then keep going aproximately 90 degrees. This make all kinds of sense, right? Right! You know how you have to hold the rotor in place with a wrench when at T.D.C. for other adjusments? It's a bear, right? Well, you are keeping the cam chain taut while at this position. The cam chain needs to be relaxed so that the tensioner can pop into place when you loosen the adjustment screw. After you pass T.D.C. you feel the slack in the whole rotor to cam chain to rocker arm system. Your valves are still just about closed *and* the cam chain is not taut allowing the cam chain tensioner to do its thing when the adjustment screw is loosened.

Everyone with a Cylmer or Hanyes manual open it up to the cam chain tensioner adjustment section and add the words "90 degrees after" right before it states T.D.C on the page.

Identify Your cb350 (VIN/Tank Color)

You can't always go by the year on the title. It was a common practice to title a Honda as the year it was sold rather than the release year. Even if you have the original title it could be titled as a later year than it is. Use the following chart to correctly identify your cb350 twin.

Step by step carburetor rebuild:

There is this excellent post on a Honda CB350 twin CV carburetor rebuild. For a first time carb rebuild on set of CV carbs Darth's post was extremely helpful. Nice step by step instructions and large pics to guide you through.

Carb rebuild parts:

I've had my carburetors off at least a dozen of so times after having stalling problems and have learned a little. First off most gaskets that come in carb rebuild kits do not fit the float bowl properly even the authentic Honda parts. I've tried a handful of carburetor kits and the float bowl rubber gaskets are always too big. The last time I had to cut it and shorten the length or I bleed gas all over the place.

Update: Finally found the float bowl gaskets to buy. They look more like the outline of home plate. Round carb gaskets have never worked for me. These float bowl gaskets have worked the best so far. I picked them up from Sirius Consolidated Inc and dealing with them has been awesome. The part number as of Jan 2010 is SCI2634. Sure it is two more gaskets than I need, but they are also less than $20. These gaskets also fit.

One down side to CV carbs is there is no vacuum port to use a carb sync tool, but they do make up for it in smaller differences by there very design. As long as all your jets/passage ways are clear, your needles/floats look good and are adjusted at the same height there are really only two things you can adjust once you get everything back together: Mixture screw & Idle stop (there is a third, but I'll get to that).

Stock carburetor, jetting and air mixture screw chart by engine number

Carb Specifications |CB/CL350 |CB/CL350|CB/CL350|
                    | Engine# | Engine#| Engine#|
                    | 1000001 |1045165 | 1065279|        |        |        |
                    | 1045164 |1065278 | & Later| SL350  |CB/CJ360| CL360  |
===========================================================================|
Setting Mark        |  350A   |  3-C   |   3-D  |   A    | 745B   | 747B   | 
--------------------|------------------------------------------------------|
Venturi Bore        |  28 mm  | 28 mm  | 28 mm  | 24 mm  | 28 mm  | 28 mm  | 
--------------------|------------------------------------------------------|
Main Jet  Pri.      |  #60    |  #70   | #70    |  #120  |  #68   |  #68   |
--------------------|------------------------------------------------------|
Main Jet Sec.       |  #115   |  #110  | #105   |  ---   |  #68   |  #68   |
--------------------|------------------------------------------------------|
Air Jet Pri.        |  #50    |  #150  | #150   |  #150  |  #150  |  #150  |
--------------------|------------------------------------------------------|
Air Jet Sec.        |  #50    |  #50   | #50    |  ---   |  #50   |  #50   |
--------------------|------------------------------------------------------|
Pilot Air Jet       |  #90    |  #90   | #90    |  ---   |  #85   |  #85   |
--------------------|------------------------------------------------------|
Needle Jet          |  ---    |  ---   |   ---  |2.515mm |  ---   |  ---   |
--------------------|------------------------------------------------------|
Slide Cutaway       |  ---    |  ---   |  ---   |  2.5   |  ---   |  ---   |
--------------------|------------------------------------------------------|
Pilot Jet           |  #38    |  #35   |  #35   |  #40   |  #35   |  #35   |
--------------------|------------------------------------------------------|
Pilot Screw Turns   | 3/4±1/8 | 1±1/8  |  1±1/8 | 1±1/8  | 1±1/8  | 1±1/8  |
--------------------|------------------------------------------------------|
Float Level (mm/in) | 19/0.75 | 21/.83 |26/1.05|26/1.05**|18.5/.73|18.5/.73|
============================================================================
                    |** SL350 K1-K2 -- 25/0.98

Another break down:

Carb model 350A
engine serial # 1000001- 1045164
Float level 19mm
Standard main jet #60 primary #115 secondary
Standard slow jet #38
Idle mixture screw initial setting 3/4 turns from closed
Idle speed 1200rpm.

Carb model 3B & 3C
engine serial # 1045165- 1065278
Float level 21mm
Standard main jet #70 primary #110 secondary
Standard slow jet #35
Idle mixture screw initial setting 1 turn from closed
Idle speed 1200rpm

Carb model 3D, 722A, 726A, 728A
engine serial # 1065279 and subsequent
Float level 26mm
Standard main jet #68 primary (722A,726A) #70 primary (3D,728A)
Scondary #70 (3D,728A), #105 (3D, 722A, 726A)
Standard slow jet #35
Idle mixture screw initial setting:
3/4 turn from closed (3D)
1 1/8 turns from closed (722A, 726A, 728A)
Idle speed 1200rpm.

The standard mixture screw setting is 1&1/4 - 1&1/2 turns out (see above). You turn the mixture screw all the way in and then back it out the above turns. If there are no other major issues with air leaks and the rest of the top end, those screw adjustments should be the same on both sides. Before my cb350 was repaired this winter I had to adjust mine slightly different on the two sides. Turning out this screw will add more gas to both the idle and off-idle throttle position and is also known as making the mixture more rich. Turning in the mixture screw makes the mix more lean (reducing the amount of gas to idle/off-idle). Checking for air leaks is key if normal settings don't work. You can use a spray carb cleaner trick I'll mentioned at the end of this section for this.

The idle stop screw sets the position that the butterfly valves rest at. The throttle cable pulls on both sides and opens those valves letting more air in and the carburetor responds by drawing more gas to match. It's strange, but the needle lifts on its own due to pressure changes. You can see about where mine are set at, but bottom line once the engine is warm you should be idling between 12k & 18k RPMs when the throttle is fully released.

The third factor is how throttle cable is adjusted as it is attached to the those butterfly valves. This is a real bitch to get at as the adjustment screws are in between the carburetors, but make sure that when turn the throttle both valves get pulled at the same time.

If you are still having problems, check for other sources of air leaks. One helpful trick is to spray carb cleaner around the carbs especially near the intake manifold while the bike is running. If the RPMs climb while spraying then you have an air leak. Using the finer nozzel can help you pin point where the airleak might be.

Honda's XL250 1972 - 1976, CL350, SL350, CB500 K Four 1971 - 1973, CB550 K 1974 - 1976, CB500 F Supersport 1975 -1977, and Kawasaki's KZ250 1981 - 1983 EX305 1983 KZ305 1981 - 1988 KZ400 1977 - 1979 KZ440 1980 - 1983 ZN700 1984 - 1985 KZ750 LTD 1980 - 1983 KZ750 Spectre 1982 - 1983 KLT200 1982 - 1983 KLT250 1982 - 1985 float bowl gasket needs.

Sweet.

Additional specs

NGK: B8ES / ND: W24ES Gap .028-.032in
Ign point gap .012-.016in
Ign Advance "F" 10° BTDC
Max advance 37°- 43° BTDC
Advance starts @ 1300rpm
Max advance 3900rpm
Dwell angle 105° (on 2 cylinder scale)
Condenser capacity 0.22 - 0.26 MFD

Sirius also has plenty of other "consumable" OEM new parts, like jets, needles, points, etc.

Before checking the Timing

Make sure your battery is fully charged if you are going to check it by hand turning the stator (static timing check). The induction timing light gun will not up trigger properly if the battery is not fully charged.

Oil Change

There is no replacable paper oil filter or similar oil filter we think of on today's engines on the Honda cb350 twin. There is, however, an oil filter centrifuge that simply traps the little bits of metal within the body of the centrifuge. On my cb350 these little bits of metal cling to the teeth inside the centrifuge, but I've seen other 350 twins that the centrifuge is perfectly smooth on the inside. It's a pain, but cleaning this out only adds life to your engine.
Here's a quick run down of an oil change on a cb350 twin and most older japanese twins:

1. Warm up the motorcycle by running it for 5 minutes.
2. Loosen the oil drain bolt located underneath the engine at one of the lowest points to the ground.
3. Once the drain bolt is out let the oil drain out for a minute or two.
   • Obviously you want to catch the oil in a basin and recycle the used oil.
   • I will rock the bike from side to side a bit to get more oil out.
   • You may also want to slowly crank the kick-starter as this pushes oil that is in the oil pump and other places out so that oil can drain.
4. Replace the drain plug making sure that any seals or o-rings are in decent shape and that the oil drain plug is tight.
   • For 350 twins only: clean out the oil centrifuge which is accessible on the right side of the bike (close to the exhaust header) by removing the 3 bolts, removing the cover and then removing the "circlip" to release the oil filter cap.
   • I've seen these centrifuges look completely smooth on the inside to having about 12 teeth.
   • These "teeth" make cleaning the inside more difficult, but it means less bits of metal floating around your engine.
5. Using a funnel with the dipstick removed, fill the engine with "wet-clutch" safe motor oil. My cb350 dipstick says 2 quarts, but I usually add a little less than that.
   • Wet-clutch describes a type of engine where the clutch plates are sitting in the same oil that runs through the engine. Modern motor oils have friction modifiers that have a negative impact on the clutch plates and over time reduces the life of your clutch.

1973 K5 model

I ended up with a rare model and a one off in the Honda cb350 line. It's a 1973 super sport (cb350G) and the only Honda cb350 of that era to have a front disk brake. All other front brakes in the line are drum style.

Is my cb350 a cb350g K5 model?

There are a couple of things you can check to tell it you have a cb350g K5 model. The most sure fire way to know is by the VIN number. Keep in mind that the engine might have been swapped at some point in the bikes life. Check both the frame VIN number and the engine VIN number. Maybe you have a frankenstein bike.

Here is how you can check to see if you have a cb350g K5 model:

• The frame VIN number from a cb350g will start with CB350-50XX..
• The engine VIN number from a cb350g will start with CB350E-50XX..
• The front disc brake is a good sign you have a K5 model
• As far as I know only the cb350g models have a shifter pedal that doesn't have a connecting linkage

Hidden steering lock

I was about to buy a steering lock for my Honda cb350 when Chad of Ace Motorcycle and Scooter pointed out a built in steering lock located between the front forks just above the front wheel. It's a tiny barrel with the key hole pointing towards the ground at the same angle as the forks and pushes a bolt out that locks the front steering. Sweet! Chad at Ace just saved me a bunch of money with his honesty and I highly recommend them if you ride in Chicago.

Conclusion:

Honda cb350s are amazing machines, powerful, nimble and timeless.

Over all my Honda cb350 is an absolute joy to ride with plenty of power and maneuverability. This bike is great for the city and decent for a quick jump on the expressway. This cb350 was my first bike and it is like a first love in a way.

Disclaimer

I am by no means an expert, just sharing what I've learned and found along the way. Local groups and help forums are how I learned and making mistakes along the way as well. For local groups I strongly recommend vinmoto.org. Hopefully there is one near you, but if not then start one. Believe me, there *are* other people like you interested in old motorcycles in your area. All the Vin Moto (vintage motorcyclists) groups are non-clubs. That is to say that there are no dues, no attitudes and no elected positions. I've hung out with both the ChiVinMoto (Chicago Vin Moto) and MilVinMoto (Milwaukee) and everybody has been very helpful and willing to freely share what they know. They are all good people. 'Nuff said.

Resources for your Honda cb350:

• VinMoto (Vintage Motorcyclists)
• ChiVinMoto (Chicago Vin Moto) - Chicago, second to none and the local vinmoto group is no different.
• Ace Motorcycle and Scooter
Hands down the best repair shop in Chicago, IL for your vintage bike is Ace. Everyone that works there are truly wonderful people. I trust them implicitly, but don't take my word for it, read their Yelp reviews. They just completed a top end rebuild job on the cb350 and worked with me to find the best and least expensive parts. They even went above and beyond to inquire through local online vintage motorcycle groups to find parts for me. Here is another big plus in my book; they don't charge you extra if you bring in your own parts unlike many other places I've gone to.
Ace is the...! (copyright pending)
• Soup or Wesman's cb350 house of knowledge My good friend and garage-mate shares what he has learned along the way.
• An amazing story of rumor turned into true story and the largest unclaimed motorcycle graveyard east of the mississippi - Dynamite Dave's journey is epic and worth reading.
• Identify your Honda cb350 year and model here.
• A great site for parts MotorCycle Solutions LLC
• Another great site for Honda cb350 parts and other classic 70s Honda bikes North City Vintage Honda
• The Honda Cb350 Wiki Pedia site. Short and to the point.

Comments:

Bob05/18/2013 9:47pm

Rocco, that is the proper shifter. The small lever on the assembly goes on the shaft pointing down. The linkage sets the shifter pivot point farther to the rear and gives it a longer range of movement

Damon05/06/2013 11:07am

You do I send you a donation for putting all of this together and hosting this page? You've saved me many times now...

Rocco04/28/2013 9:39pm

I just got a cb350 without a "standard" shift lever. There was a box of parts however, one of which is a shift with second linkage. There is a "boss" where it could fit, but it seems like the shift would work backwards. Anybody know what's going on?

Rocco04/28/2013 9:39pm

I just got a cb350 without a "standard" shift lever. There was a box of parts however, one of which is a shift with second linkage. There is a "boss" where it could fit, but it seems like the shift would work backwards. Anybody know what's going on?

Kirk04/17/2013 5:40pm

Oh I see its in the cover

Kirk04/16/2013 8:56pm

What's the seal for the kick starter shaft? Is there suppose to be an o ring?

Jack04/10/2013 10:36am

Thanks for your web site it has helped my son and I restore a cb350f,.could not have done it with out you. Thanks again

Ben Miranda04/08/2013 2:45pm

Mike,

There is a section on inspection of the front linkage (pg 83-89) in the Honda shop manual downloadable on this page.

Since I own the disc brake model and I'm fairly new to wrenching on these old bikes, I've never dealt with a forward leading (shoe) drum brake like yours.


Good luck,

Ben Miranda04/08/2013 2:30pm

Troy,

First off, if your model identification concerns are for buying used parts, I wouldn't worry about it. With the exception of the earlier models, really just the K0 1969 model, the differences are almost all cosmetic. In fact a friend of mine is doing an entire 350 twin engine rebuild and the bottom crankcase is from a CL350 (scrambler or high pipe version). Of course the CB350 K5 was the only model to have a front disc brake, one could easily retro fit a front drum if they really wanted to. Your 350 could be stock with a disc and K4 engine. I've heard of more unusual combos than that.

As for the dead clutch (snap), I would first check that the clutch cable hasn't broken and make sure the clutch adjustment/lever inside the left rear cover is all there and well greased. If the bike has just been sitting, I would suspect the cable. You can leave the clutch cable attached and remove the left rear cover. Looking at it on the inside does the clutch hand control move the inner clutch lever? If not and if the cable end is still attached to the inner clutch lever then the cable has snapped.

The springs in the clutch basket (in the right side) are not likely to break and especially all at once.

Mike04/06/2013 2:37am

Great info source thanks! Just wondering if you know how the front brake linkage rod should be adjusted to give even show pressures. Not really any mention of this in Haynes.Please copy reply to my email if poss.

Thanks a lot

mike03/29/2013 2:12pm

what are the stock size rims for a cb350g k5?

troy green03/29/2013 4:12am

I have a 8/1972 date of manufacture on my 350 but it has hydraulic brakes and the engine is cb350e-4xxxxxx, is it a half year? it has never had an engine swap I got it from my dad and he said it was stock. also clutch will not disengage loud pop when I pulled the lever and now all slack and no go. any thoughts?? it sat for 14 years in a shed and the plates might be seized??

Ben Miranda03/21/2013 11:34am

Vern,

First of all, have you gone through the clutch adjustment procedure in the shop manual? If not, download the PDF version of the shop manual available here.

Secondly, and this is a common thing to miss, all control cables need to be lubed periodically and should be lubed even when brand new. You can get away with lubing the clutch cable with it still connected to the bike, but you'll have to disconnect it from the control lever. If you haven't already, buy a cable lube kit that comes with the luber tool. Follow all the steps in the clutch adjustment procedure, but stop right before the clutch adjusting screw step (and lock nut). At this point the cable should have enough slack to remove it from the control lever. Try to straighten the cable as much as possible (for better flow of the lube), connect the luber tool, tighten, connect the aerosol straw to the rubber hole on the luber tube and spray in short repeated bursts. I also work the cable itself back and forth a bit from the metal dowel connected to the cable. Remove the luber tool, reconnect the clutch control cable and finish the adjustment procedure.

When thinking about general maintenance, like checking chain slack, checking oil and so on, lubing control cables should also be in that list and be done periodically.

luis Alejandro03/21/2013 1:24am

Good Vibes, friends, I am writing to you with great joy

ke know share the same passion for motorcycles Honda cb 350 cc, I'm a young Lima Peru, who earned his second bike and this repair part by part and good in the Peruvian market can not find many pieces as carburetors, starter parts Motor and clear detail the points twins, I ask you to help me to finish my bike, so I had many problems in getting the products

if you have the ability to find the missing parts would be awesome ke me to ride my bike again ....

Please respond to (leonskateshop@hotmail.com)

I am so buying a motor interezado semi assembled or unassembled ....

Greetings Alejandro



Buenas Vibras , amigos , me dirijo a ustedes con mucha alegria

de saber ke comparten la misma pasion por las motos Honda cb 350 cc , soy un Joven de Lima Peru , que obtuvo su moto de segunda y esta reparando parte por parte y bueno en el mercado Peruano no encuentro muchas piezas como carburadores, arrancador, partes del Motor y claro el detalle de los platinos gemelos, quiero pedirles que me ayuden para terminar mi moto, por lo cual tuve muchos Problemas en conseguir los productos

si ustedes tienen la facilidad de encontrar las Piezas ke me faltan seria Increible poder otra vez andar mi moto ....

favor respondan a ( leonskateshop@hotmail.com )

estoy muy Interezado en comprar un motor semi armado o por partes ....

saludos Alejandro

Vern Brady03/20/2013 11:15pm

I have a '71CB350 that I am trying to get back on the road. The clutch is so heavy and hard to pull. The cable is new (not by me)and I haven't dug into it yet. Any thoughts on cause or problem areas?

Ben Miranda03/01/2013 5:33pm

Steph, I've never tried it, but from a long ago looked at post on the Honda twins forum I'm 85% sure that you can not swap the tanks between the 350 fours and the twins.

Steph02/22/2013 11:18am

Do you know if a tank from a 73 cb350f would be compatible with a 73 cb350 twin cylinder?

luis alejandro11/19/2012 11:01pm

Via google translate: Glad I own one and I want to buy a CB350 engine with valid documents, Greetings from Lima Peru. If I sell it would be great to import new or second with document.
saludos alejandro
leonskateshop@hotmail.com

mucho gusto yo poseo una cb350 y kiero comprar un motor con documentos en regla , saludos desde lima peru . si me lo venden seria genial importarlo nuevo o de segunda con documentos

saludos alejandro

luis alejandro11/19/2012 11:01pm

mucho gusto yo poseo una cb350 y kiero comprar un motor con documentos en regla , saludos desde lima peru . si me lo venden seria genial importarlo nuevo o de segunda con documentos

saludos alejandro

Wes10/12/2012 11:10am

The cam chain!!! I used my manuals and afterwards it was really loud... Thanks for the heads up, going to change that now. Great website by the way.

Ben Miranda10/08/2012 6:50pm

Hey John,
You definitely do not want to go at the grommets with a screwdriver. There are 3 plastic tabs that secure the side cover to the frame. If you have stock air boxes the grommet fits onto brass nipple as the 4th friction point. If you can spray a bit of general grease between the plastc tabs and the rubber that holds them to the frame they should come of easier. I usually start with the lowest tab and work up. It's old plastic so be careful.

Before you put them back on make sure to put a layer of grease on the tabs and rubber rings so that future removals are easy and less likely to break those tabs off. Replace any missing rubber rings too.

Good luck!

John10/08/2012 5:16pm

I just bought a 1972 Honda cl350. How do remove the air filer side covers? Do you pull on the cover itself? Or, do you pry the grommets with a screw driver?

Ben Miranda09/28/2012 8:39pm

Keith,
You really only have 2 options, 1) find a cheap set or single 350 twin carburetor with the linkage (called a join set connector in the parts fiche) on ebay or a junkyard and just use the parts that you need. 2) There are a couple of NOS (never been used parts sitting around or new old stock) sites that might carry just the part you need. I haven't looked up the part you need, but the part number and description are:
16025-286-004 JOINT SET, CONNECTOR - JOINT SET
That is a set that contains the linkage and all the nuts and various washers.

The NOS sites I know about:
http://www.hondarestoration.com/
http://www.myoldhonda.com/
http://www.ohiocycle.com

Also, if you got the model number from the title, the title has the model name wrong. Titles from the 1970s and before notoriously have the wrong year, displacement and in your case a model name from the engine VIN. Frame and engine VINs rarely have the last set of numbers that are the same, but the frame VIN starts with CB350-XXXXX... and the engine VIN CB350E-XXXXX... ('E' for engine). All the street models are considered cb350 twins, with sub-models (this info should not be on the title either) of K0 through K5. The only exception is that the CB350 K5 is referred to as the CB350G on the title for really no rhyme or reason. All the scrambler models are referred to as CL350 K0-K5 as well as the SL350s with around 70% of the parts being interchangeable between those 3 models. The main exception being cosmetic parts, exhaust and front forks/suspension. Many of those parts will "fit" on a cb350, but minor modifications will need to be made to make it work properly.

In other words, if you find a carb linkage from a CL350 set of carbs it should work with no modifications, but there is no such thing as a CB350E.

Good luck.

keith09/28/2012 3:00pm

Found this site searching for parts to restore my CB350E. I need 1carb linkage. The bike is 85%. Can you help me get started or point me to part sources. This would be an excellent source of parts.

Daniel09/04/2012 9:28pm

I have a parts list for all cb350's through k4. It's by far the easiest way to find parts online. If some one is having trouble finding a part and doesn't have part numbers let me know and maybe I can help out.

Miranda08/27/2012 10:14am

Keith,
There is a chain connecting the starter motor to the gear near the alternator rotor. My guess is that chain has broken or the initial gears within the starter motor drive are worn. You'll have to pull the rotor to get at the gear that the chain connects to, so it's not an easy job even with a rotor puller tool (which is a must have for this repair).

cb Miranda08/27/2012 9:42am

Jim,
Awesome! I'm glad the site is useful for you. From everything I heard, the David Silver exhaust are faithful to the stock exhaust including the baffels. I would stick with the stock jetting and just watch your spark plugs for carbon fouling or signs of running lean. In general 350 twins run rich anyway, so stay with what you've got and adjust after it's been on the road awhile.

Bryan08/25/2012 7:00pm

Ben, thankd for your info. I like to think I may have the only '69 CB350 on all of Oahu, as I've never seen another before, and all the bike shop guys ask me where I found it (the answer is California...being military DOES have it's merits sometimes)

Jim08/20/2012 1:05pm

Ben, love the site and thanks for putting it together. I have the same 1973 CB350G K5 Iris Purple Metallic with 722A Keihin carb. I've had it since '87 but kept it garaged at a relatives house until last week. I am in the process of rebuilding it after 25 years. I just ordered some David Silver Spares per your recommendation. Do I need to rejet the carb for these or is this exhaust/muffler ("silencers") close enough to the original to still use primary #68,secondary #105 slow #35? Also, any tips on finding a right side purple iris side cover?

ronald08/15/2012 9:03am

is there any Honda350 for sale in India
zizou5054@gmail.com

Peter07/28/2012 6:39am

There is one more CB350 Model: CB 350 B4 build

only in 1973 it was with front disk but the rest identical to K4, maybe sold only in Germany

keith07/23/2012 5:34pm

Know anything about starters?? 72 cb350. the starters spins but does not engage and turn the engine over.

jeff07/21/2012 3:24pm

Ben, Thanks for you response on the carb. jetting,I'll monitor my plugs rejet if nessary. Jeff

Ben Miranda07/15/2012 3:15pm

Linda,

Looking from the left side (side where the stator cover with the honda logo is), right behind where the clutch cable goes into engine crankshaft, you'll find the engine vin stamped into a raised part of the crankcase cover.

Linda07/15/2012 12:08pm

Hi Ben,

I thought I had already found this info on your site, but can't seem to find it now that I need it. Wondering where the Vin for the engine is stamped. Thanks!

Stan07/13/2012 2:47pm

Thanks to your site, my 73 CB350g K5 is running very quiet. The left tappers were (are you sitting down?) exhaust 1/8" and intake 3/16" !!

Now .004" and .002 like they're supposed to be. Also followed your old manual to manually adjust the camshaft chain tension control bolt. Changed the oil heeding the wet clutch requirement.

I have a photo of my updated electronic ignition but not sure how to upload it. It's not for purists but never misses. Thanks again.

Stan

Stan07/12/2012 10:39pm

Very Helpful site Ben. I just became the proud owner of a purple iris CB350g K model. Not quite as pretty as yours and has an overall patina that speaks of many past romances and mishaps. Just got it safety checked and legally licensed today. Working on the tappet noise first. Thanks for all the info.

Stan

Greg Aronson07/09/2012 10:07am

Just wanted to say that you have put together a very comprehensive site. I'm currently rebuilding my carbs on a cb350k4 and your site has been a great help . I'm not sure if you have visited hondatwins.net , this is a wonderful forum for discussing everything twin related.

Thanks again,

Greg

Bill Vance07/06/2012 7:22pm

Well after posting my question last night, I found a 3.00-18 Shinko tire on ebay that very closely resembles the stock tread pattern..Close enough for me anyways, and at under $60..Here's a link for anyone else interested...



http://www.shinkotire.co.kr/english/02product/sub01_detail.asp?pcode=AA00080163

Ben Miranda07/06/2012 11:02am

Thanks, Russ. Finding an ignition switch with a key is going to be hard to come by and possibly expensive. NOS (unopened new, but old stock) ignition switches with keys on ebay could cost $100-$200 especially if the seat and fork lock mechanisms are also included as part of the set. Ebay is still going to be your best bet for fixing this on the cheap. The ignition switches from just about any year cb350 and cl350 (possibly with the exception of 1968/69) will work on any other year. The face of the switch will have a code punched into it which a key can be cut from... just the code, not the lock itself! I've included a picture to show you the code. Some Honda dealerships can still cut these if they have they key blank. If not try this vintage motorcycle key site. It's a great resouce for identifying and ordering keys.

Ben Miranda07/06/2012 10:21am

Jeff, From what I've heard from reliable mechanic (60-70s Honda motos are about all he works on), 350 twins run rich as is. I would try the standard jetting with the more open exhaust and either do a plug chop or see if you're running to lean from looking at the sparkplugs periodically. If you do increase the jet size, you want to change both main and fast jet, from what I've been told. This would also be a good quetion for the Honda Twins forum.

Russ07/06/2012 12:31am

Fantastic info source. Congrats on a great job. I just picked up a 350 twin, a barn find. No keys. Anyone have any infor on a source for keys with locks? Will the honda dealer be able to make keys with the vin? I am looking forward to getting this dirty but completely intack bike on the road.

Bill Vance07/05/2012 6:46pm

First off, great site here....Tons of info helping me restore my very first streetbike, a '73 Honda CB350...Yeah I still have it...lol..Right now going through the front end, replacing fork seals and trying to find tires for it...Would prefer to have original style tires on it, but having a tough time finding some that I won't have to rob the local liquor store to pay for (just kidding, I would never rob the liquor store), but you know what I mean...All the tires I find in the correct size and decent price have a "modern" tread pattern that just doesn't look right on a 40 year old bike...

jeff frazee06/16/2012 7:23pm

I have a cb350g with cv type carbs, I have changed the air cleaners and plan to put on a free flowing exhaust. My question is, when rejetting the carbs do i need to change both the main jet and the secondary, or just the main.

Ben Miranda05/26/2012 4:43pm

Dave, The third position is the parking position. This kills the the engine while keeping the lights on (both tail light and head light) if the headlamp switch is on or on high beam. I'd imagine any turn signals would also stay on and flashing.

Dave Devin05/25/2012 10:11am

Regarding the ignition switch on a cl350 1972. There are 3 positions, off which is rotated fully left. On/start, which is the middle position. What is the third position, rotated fully right, intended for.

Ben Miranda03/22/2012 3:51pm

CJ,
If you need just the slides (what you referred to as pistons) and not just the diaphragms, then your best bet is a decent set on ebay or craigslist. If you need just the diaphragms due to dry rot or whatever, Sirius has good replacement parts and a picture flow on how to replace them. The part is here and the picture instructions.

Cj03/16/2012 8:43am

i have a 12/69 Cb350 im fixin up. both carbs were full of old gas so im in need for two vacuum pistons...know where i could find them? O and what would be the best way to clean out a gas tank...its full of crap

Ben Miranda03/14/2012 11:13am

Keith,
I recomend David Silver Spares (in the UK) for the best quality and closest reproduction stock mufflers. They are about $140 each, but are worth it. You can find both sides here and here.

As for upgrading to electronic ignition, that's not a simple yes or no answer. The pros are more obvious: more reliable timing without adjusting the points at regular intervals and having the ability to change power curves with software. Also keep in mind that the points housing gets hot which can cause the electronics to fail over time. There are different methods for triggering from mechanical to optic. Personally, I'll stick with points so I'm not stranded by a dead brain box and save the money as well. Fixing the points on the side of the road seems preferable unless you have amazing road side assistance.

The bar you are asking about is called a rear grip bar according to the parts fiche.

keith03/02/2012 12:44pm

Bought 72 honda 350 fixer upper. Not quite the bike I really want but I can fix and sell. Wher can i get good quality mufflers? Do you recommend switching out point to electronic ignition? Lastly, what that bar called off the back of the seal above rear fender?

Ben Miranda02/29/2012 8:18pm

Alberto,

Yes, spark plug caps (boots) on all CB350 (and CL350) models can be swapped out as long as you have enough length on the high tension wires (spark plug wires). First see if you can remove the existing ones by cutting off the rubber boot seals and then twisting the existing caps off counterclockwise. You may have to spray the boots with some liquid wrench, but if you pull and wiggle them they will come off. Worst case scenario, cut the boots off as close to the spark plug caps as you can. Either way, make sure to trim the old ends of the spark plug wires. They get rusty and trimming them just a little will give you nice fresh copper wire inside. I replaced mine with NGK caps. With the cap boot already on the sp wire, twist the new caps clockwise on to the spark plug wire and then slide the boot over the cap to make a decent seal. That's it!



If they have been replaced before and not enough wire length is left you'll have to get new coils. Good luck!

alberto Valenzuela02/26/2012 3:10am

are spark plug boots replaceable on 1970 honda cb350

keith almryde02/17/2012 1:48pm

I am looking for a 1973 honda cb 350. If anyone out there knows of one please pass it on to me. Thanks keith.almryde@gmail.com

scott11/27/2011 5:00pm

Thank you for the great info, I now know I have a cb350k5. I also have parts for sale from that bike if you know anyone looking I have entered my email. Thanks again leland.scott03@gmail.com

ben miranda11/21/2011 7:06pm

Jim,
Thanks for the comment. It took me a couple days to track down some info for you. The simple answer to your question is no, I don't have a similar page to this that is 305 related, but I did find some resources for you.

This forum will be the best help for you. Sign up, ask questions and if you're nice about it I bet you the VinMoto folk will pass on what they know.
http://www.honda305.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=22

A ton of free manuals. I didn't see a CA77/78 or 305 manual here, but the list is immense.
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

There also might be a vintage motorcyclist group near you. If not, then start one. It's free and can only help the community at large. I'm part of the ChiVinMoto group and everybody I've communicated and rode with has been cool as shit. Seriously. Great. People.
http://vinmoto.org/

Good luck!

jim11/19/2011 4:00am

do you have anything like this page for a 67 305 twin (CA77-CA78)?or do you know of one. I'm sure its my ignorance of the internet but i can't find a good instructional page for this old honda dream i found. i ordered a climbers manual and i must have got the wrong one. it showed how to take the engine off the bike but not how to clean the oil filter!! your page is great,i can understand it. I'm a beemer guy but i ran across a deal on this little dream and I'm having fun cleaning it up. i love its old charm and chrome tank!! jim

ben miranda11/02/2011 4:30pm

Comments are now open.

 

That twitter thing

Believe it or not, there are a decent number of vintage japanese riders and wrenchers on twitter.com. You can follow me at http://twitter.com/cb350 about my cb350 adventures.